Now here I am, getting to see a bit of the world here and there, settling by the sea. But this is not a place to plant lupines. Too hot in the summer, not cold enough in the winter. But this town is a place that probably once was beautiful in spots, and maybe could be again, if not everyone flees to the new developments north of Highway 10.
Nearly every day I run. I try to get in 2-5 miles. Running has been one of the few constants in my life; it may be an addiction. But it allows me to clear my head, exercise the dog, spend time with whatever kids are in the babyjogger, daydream, get fresh air, feel less guilty about the amount of chocolate I consume, and get to know my neighborhood.
If I leave my house and turn one direction, I end up at the bay. I take this route most often because it has little traffic, plenty of shade, and the distance is just about right. This is not a resort area, but there are piers and a scenic island, some random wild flowers in the sidewalk cracks: some that look like what my grandfather called rock roses, or portaluca. This route circles around a neighborhood on a point that juts into the bay. Here large homes are shaded by stately live oaks dripping Spanish moss and tropical plants add color. A number of vacant plots remain from Katrina, one with the Adirondack chairs decaying on a cement foundation on my masthead. There are also a few new homes being constructed in large beach house fashion: big porches with ceiling fans, long windows, taupe hardyboard with white trim… Big boats park at piers in front of these homes.
If I turn the other direction, I run into the Air Force Base. On this route, I feel safe and secure but there’s not much to look at. Big open spaces. Few pedestrians. Fewer flowers.
If I skip past the Air Force base and go on, I hit the projects next to the railroad tracks, the trailer park, the house with tarp covering missing sections of roof, boarded up, surrounded by jalopies, overgrown shrubbery. A few of the homes here have a southern cottagey feel – deep porches with gingerbreading, long windows, garden ephemera in disarray, evidence of a more gentile past. But for the most part, they are small, deteriorating boxes providing shelter for people who work long hours for little pay. Or for those who don’t work at all. Someone at church saw me running here one day and told me I shouldn’t be on that road alone. Her comment worried me, and I avoided this route for awhile. But then I figured people live here, survive the shudders when the trains pass every day, meet at the pawn shop, sit on their porches and wave at each other or don’t, ignore the pit bulls, the rottweiler, and two enormous mastiffs who pace their chain linked boundaries. And they survive, although perhaps only because they block out thoughts of the many miseries they suffer.
Once I hit the Gulf Coast beach, I feel less like I need to move quickly. On Sunday mornings the only people on the beach are a few fishermen, some aging women walkers, and vagrants with nowhere else to go. The odor emanating from the casino parking garage when I pass by leads me to believe they might sleep in there or hide from the daily rainshower. I don't see many homeless people hanging out near the cemetary on this route, though, despite the fact that it an outhouse, water pumps, and shelters over some of the gravesites. I'd like to think that there is an understood reverence for the graveyard, but perhaps there is a greater fear of ghosts.
One of my son’s friends said our neighborhood is scary, as I mentioned before. When we were househunting, we looked at some more suburban neighborhoods, where the school friends live, that were newer subdivisions north of the highway, undamaged by hurricanes, neat, orderly communities with covenants. They were clean and safe, but I couldn’t imagine living in a house with wall to wall white carpet, and I didn’t know where I would run, except in circles around the neighborhood, because these developments emptied onto busy streets where pedestrians are at the mercy of drivers in a hurry to get to Walmart or work or wherever. The house we chose is pocketed between moderate wealth and poverty, government property and city slums, but it is in what was once a pedestrian friendly spot. If you squint your eyes at the bay or walk to the beach and shade your eyes with your hands, you can close out the bridges and traffic and trash and pretend you are on a desolate island for a couple seconds.
So here I am near the sea like Miss Rumphius. Is there something I can do to make this place more beautiful?
photos from the fall

