To lift my spirits from the moving doldrums, I'll review our trip to Europe at the beginning of the summer for our son's wedding.
When our second son and his fiancée first mentioned the idea of a wedding in Rome, we initially thought they were joking. Surely, they didn't really want to have a little destination wedding instead of a big family wedding in Portland, Maine!
But yes, they really did want that small wedding in the city where they met and their story began. An Italian wedding planner was hired by the mother of the bride (what is our relationship called? Something more than friends?) A date was picked that accommodated the teachers in the family, and the church, San Ignazio, was reserved. At the time, it was not on the tourist circuit, but the installation of a mirror to view the ceiling made it TikTok famous at some point this year.
Our part in the planning was to choose a site for the rehearsal dinner and to book accommodations and flights for our family. My travel planning expertise kicked in. The rehearsal dinner choice was simple - the restaurant where my husband frequented as a student, and where we celebrated this son's 21st first birthday when he was a student and we traveled to Rome to see him (post about that trip here), where we hosted a dinner with a priest friend, and which is still in business. My husband conveniently had a work trip scheduled in late winter, so he dropped by the restaurant, Miscellanea, reserved the date, and picked a menu. What he did not do was set a price. Nor did I remind him that this is an important part of the process. Mickey assured my husband he would take care of him, and our previous dinners were delicious and reasonable. We were supposed to receive an email with all of that spelled out, but ah, never did! Closer to the date in May, we sent our fourth son, who was currently studying in Rome, to stop by again to confirm the date and time, so we thought all was set. What we did not calculate was the abundance of wine and appetizers and pizza that would be served! To fast forward to the end of the story, the rehearsal dinner ended up costing about twice the amount we idealistically expected, but about the amount that we should have expected!
Housing was a little more complicated. Thankfully, the mother of the bride nudged me to reserve early because the summer of 2025 was a Jubilee year, and Rome would be crowded (which it was). Thank goodness for that nudge! At first I thought I could find an Airbnb for our family, but when we added in my parents (who in the end did not come), and 2 sets of aunts and uncles, our numbers rose to 17. Knowing that some in our party might cancel, I switched to looking for a hotel. This was not easy because there are so many choices in Rome, but I focused on the area near the church, so we could walk there. After looking at what seemed like hundreds of options, I settled on a little pensione that had different sized rooms that fit our needs perfectly, was located not too far from San Ignazio off Piazza Navona, and fit our budget - the Charming Navona. It was not a luxury stay, but it was clean, comfortable, quiet, and the rooms were just the right size. We needed rooms for three for our sons and daughters, a room for a family of 4 for the cousins coming from Germany, three rooms with queens, and one big enough for a porta-crib, and a room with twins for my mom and dad, because my dad has a sleep disorder and has to sleep in his own bed. What luck! Charming Navona worked just right for us, and even had a small lounge area on each floor for gathering, although we usually gathered in the family suite on the top floor where the cousins were staying because it had a kitchenette and a small balcony (never mind that the balcony was accessed through the bathroom). It had a lovely view of Italian rooftop gardens.
Next item: airline tickets. For the adult kids, we gifted them a nice amount of cash for Christmas to buy their own airfare. Since everyone had different schedules and options for traveling to other places in Europe - or not, that was the simplest way. I booked the tickets for the son studying abroad, who had to stay an extra 2 weeks at the end of the semester, which gave him time to travel a little more in Europe, and for the 2 youngest girls, my husband and me. This was a little complicated because we had to figure out how much time we had for a European vacation and where we wanted to travel. Fortunately, I hadn't booked tickets yet when my husband found out about his new job and moved to South Bend. I also had to wait to see when our middle daughter finished her track season as postseason competition extended to June. We figured she would not compete at NCAA nationals, but you never know...
It also took us awhile to figure out if we would extend our stay and for how long and where we would travel if we did. That was the topic of a lot of fun conversations, but we finally settled on flying to Paris (a direct flight from Chicago, which eased the mind of our fearful flier, who is doing much better, btw), spending a couple days there, then making a short pilgrimage to Lourdes before heading to the Eternal City for the wedding weekend. We'd end our trip by spending a couple of days in Nuremberg with the cousins before flying back to Austin via Chicago.
These were all cities I had visited before, except Lourdes. It had been over 30 years since we had been to Paris, but only 3 since visiting Nuremberg. However, we wanted the girls to see how their cousins lived, and the older kids, except the oldest, had all visited the cousins when they were studying abroad, so the younger two could have that shared memory. Plus, there is something meaningful about visiting people in their homes that cements relationships. You learn more about people when you see where and how they live, which is one of the goals, I think, of travel abroad. I am a little sorry that the model of staying with a host family has become so much rarer for study abroad students.
With the destinations selected, next came booking planes, trains, and hotels - no automobiles for us. Our 3rd and 4th sons were staying with us in Paris, so I found a cute Airbnb near the Eiffel Tower (Loft Effiel by LCC Agency) for six - it was perfect for us, close to a fabulous bakery and within walking distance of most Paris sites that you want to see during 2.5 day visit. I added the name to remember for the future, although I don't anticipate a return to Paris any time soon.
Then I booked train tickets to Lourdes (using a budget train, OUIGO, instead of the main trainline, RCNF, because those tix were pricey), and then an Airbnb in Lourdes for 5 (3rd son went to Venice to meet up with friends.) Le Chaleureux Lourdes Hyper Center I also recommend - it was a spacious apartment right on the Gave River that flows through the city, within walking distance of the domain, and with cute balcony to admire the view of the river and the Pyrenees mountains in the distance. I did not know that Lourdes was actually also a destination for flyfishing excursions, but the view of the mountains and river made me wish we had more time to explore the countryside.
Next, we booked plane tickets to Rome from Toulouse, the nearest regional airport, on Ryanair (cheaper than the train tix), and a hotel near the airport (Appart Hotel Odalys Toulouse) because our flight was super early in the morning. I have not much to say about Toulouse, other than that the train from Lourdes to Toulouse arrived late and the train station was far from the airport, so we had to take a tram and walk quite a ways. And then the hotel, which was nothing special but advertised a shuttle to the airport, was a little over a mile to the entrance of the airport, even though on the map it looked like only a half a mile. One of our travel mistakes was that the shuttle didn't run until 6 am, which was when our flight left. Since we had lugged our bags all over creation the night before, my husband refused to walk, so we called a cab - which was 60 Euro to take us all that one mile. It cost less than that to uber almost an hour from central Rome to the airport. Lesson learned - check distance and/or reserve an uber sooner for better prices.
Finally, we booked cheap flights on EasyJet from Rome to Munich and then rented a car to get to Nuremberg, which was cheaper and faster than taking the train, since we were a party of four. Plus, my husband discovered on our last trip that it is fun to drive in Germany, and he was weary of public transportation!
So with the itinerary was set and reservations were made, we, eventually, packed our bags. Traveling to Europe for a wedding requires slightly different packing strategies, but we were able to figure out a way to fit all of the dress clothes and fancy shoes in a hanging bag that could still be used as a carry-on, except for on RyanAir and EasyJet, and made sure all of our carry-ons fit the size regulations of European airlines, and then scaled back, twice, what we thought we wanted to take - which ended up being plenty. Shopping for wedding and rehearsal dresses took a little time as well - hence, no BackBayView updates for months!
The next edition will have more updates about what we experienced and photos of the events. This is the boring post with travel details for reference later. BUT I'm adding a few photos for interest!

