Wednesday, December 13, 2017

The last full day in Ireland - Killarney and Rock of Cashel

After two days of gray skies and drizzling rain, we woke to sunshine on our last full day in Ireland. We had another delicious breakfast at the Orchard House b and b, not quite as big as the day before, but prepared with more care. Loaded up on instant coffee, we were ready to explore Killarney National Park. This was our nature day, after spending the previous days in towns.

The terrain of Killarney is much hillier than the interior of Ireland. When planning this trip, I spent a lot of time trying to decide how to get the most out of our short visit without spending too much time in the car. This area is the home town of our parish priest, and received so many recommendations that even though it was about 3 or 4 hours from Dublin, I thought it was a worth a visit. And Joe had not been to this southwest corner of Ireland on any of his field trips, and probably wouldn't have time in the semester to come back. My husband initially was skeptical of driving this far, but when the sun shone on the beauty of this locale, he, too, was glad we had come. 

We started the day with a stop at Muckross Estate, which is just outside of the town. I thought there would be a fee to walk around, but at least at this time of year and this time of day, it was open to visitors. We parked and walked the grounds with other early morning risers, some of whom seemed to be making this their morning exercise. The carriage drivers, known as jarveys, were out and offering rides to the lake, which we declined, but I'm sure riding in one of their "jaunting cars" would be pleasant. The estate is not especially old, dating to the 19th century, but it is grand, and at one time owned by wealthy Californians, who gifted it to the Irish nation. The gardens are beautiful, and the location on the shores of a small lake is breathtaking.  It was easy to pretend to be on the Irish version of Downtown Abby while walking the grounds.

 


Steps to the Japanese garden
Rhododendrons blooming
 After we'd circled the grounds, we drove a short way to the trail head for a hike up to Torc Falls. The falls were just a short hike up from the parking lot through an autumnal woods, but I had read about extending the hike up to the top of Torc Mountain, an out and back hike of about 5 miles. Again, I had to convince my husband to take the longer walk, and again, the views and the friendly people we passed while walking, including a lively group of young scouts and a dedicated hiker of about 80 some years. Everyone we passed commented on the lovely day.

A field of red deer, difficult to see, but large like elk.
A view of Muckross Lake and Lake Leane, two of three lakes in this area.
Torc Falls
  

Moss covered trees made the wood seem habitable by little people

A different terrain as we headed up the mountain.

The walking path. We really didn't see a lot of people on the way up, and only a few on the way down.

Windy at the top of Torc Mountain.
  
After the hike we talked about eating a hearty lunch, but ended up getting snacks at the grocery store, and loading up on Cadbury chocolate to take home to the kids. Since Irish food isn't the reason people visit Ireland, we skimped on meals to stay in our budget.  The drive back to Dublin was along major roadways so it was not as stressful as some of the other drives, but it still took us past some pastoral views, and right through the town of Cashel, where we stopped to visit one more medieval ruin, the Rock of Cashel, which was another site where some structures originally dated from the 12th century, but others were built in the 15th. This site has nice museum and again the ancient stone cross has been brought inside and a replica put in its place. I wouldn't have known the replica was a fake if I hadn't read it.


The Rock of Cashel

The stone cross here had a unique design with supports for the crossarms.

Ancient carvings still exposed to the air.


The clerks hall for small men.

A sturdy Madonna and child.

Reproduction of the kitchen


St. John
A memento from Queen Elizabeth's visit - a carved wooden pen, an interesting gift

The town of Cashel
On the Rock
We left Cashel just after the sun set on this beautiful day. It had filled us up with fresh air and an appetite. Upon our return to Dublin, we hurried back over to the Newman church for Sunday night mass because the choir was singing a new Mass written by Steve Warner for the renovation of the church. It was a lovely way to end the day.

By this time we were famished, and I was ready for something other than pub food, so we ate a warm and filling meal at an Indian restaurant before stepping over to the pub where the Notre Dame students meet after their evening class at the O'Connell House on Merrion Square for one last pint of Guinness. I actually was full of beer by this time in the trip and just had a half pint. This pub had lots of photos of police and firemen and rugby teams and was designed with "snugs" - little nooks for private conversations, maybe discussions of cases and crimes. We didn't sit in one, but I liked the idea.
Good night, sun.

Our most delicious meal
Another full day drew to a close as we drove our son back to campus where we picked up the hubcap from his friend (perfect fit!) and a few things he wanted to send back with us from his room.  We said goodbye here, before heading back to the Merrion Ballsbridge Townhouse, because we had to leave early for our flight the next morning. I had hoped to meet for one last cup of coffee and pastry, but we knew we had to drive through town during the morning rush and return the car. It was a bittersweet goodbye.  Our son will be home in a couple weeks, but it was such a new and wonderful experience to spend time with him as a grown young man.  We don't often have one on one time with our kids, especially the older ones, and these times are sure to grow rarer as they move out into the world on their own.  Our son's ability to navigate the city gives us confidence in his future adventures, as we look forward to welcoming him home briefly before sending him out again.
Everyone happy at home

No comments:

Reading is one form of escape. Running for your life is another.
-Lemony Snicket